Monday 7 May 2012

THE FUTURE OF FOLK


Alice McCall SS12/13 Review



As the fash-pack filed into The Tent ahead of Alice McCall's much anticipated SS12/13 showing, I couldn't help but feel nervous at the prospect of the Eastern European themed collection, entitled 'Babooshka'. After all, the journey aesthetic is a well-beaten path riddled with cultural tokenism (read: ethnic inspired headresses and bindis), sentimentalist nostalgia and cheesy Hollywood film adaptions. 

 
However, the mere sight of the opening models silenced my doubts, proving that McCall's foray into Hungarian folk art was only the springboard for a kaleidoscopic collection that culminated in digital futurism and art nouveau.

Old country never looked so good - as lampshade skirts and apron necklines were updated with floral digital prints and stained glass patterns. The folk art narrative was perpetuated by braided hair that framed the Russian doll makeup, with crystal teardrop earrings adding to the playful historical drama. 



All in all, Babooshka offers a well-executed take on tradition, incorporating cultural context, wearability and a unique analysis of current trends (such as peplum skirting and sports luxe design). McCall issues a warning to her industry peers playing it safe as disciples of hyper-minimalism, asserting that refinement can be found in even the most vibrant of collections.